I have been in Haiti a little over two months now. My philosophy has always been to say yes when someone asks me if I want to see something, try something, taste something, do something and go somewhere. I’m here to work and live the Haitian experience. The only thing I have declined so far is the religious experience.
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L’Eglise Chrétienne de Christianville |
Christianville, as the name implies, is a very Christian-oriented, faith-based organization and community. The people here are dedicated and very much Christian in their beliefs and the way they live their lives. We have a prayer before each meal. There are vespers on Monday evening. There is Bible Study on Thursday evening. And there is church on Sunday. The Christianville family, along with whatever mission group may be staying here at the time, goes to church every Sunday morning. They go to Pastor Herold’s church or Pastor Oden’s church or another church in the area. It is voluntary, of course. No one is obliged to go. And up to now, I have not gone. I have my own Sunday morning routine. I get up about 7 am and go for a run. Then I do some yoga and climb to the top of the new guesthouse under construction and reflect as I looked out over the Haitian countryside. It is my quiet time.
Last night I decided that I needed to experience a Sunday morning in a Haitian Christian church. I am Catholic and I have been to Sunday morning Mass several times in Haiti at St. Pierre in Baradères during our mission visits there with my church from Silver Spring. But a Haitian Christian church is different. So I wanted to see what it was like.
After my workout, I showered, put on a polo shirt, my khaki pants and dress shoes and walked over to the Christianville Church, Pastor Fanel’s church. It was 9 am. There were maybe two dozen people already in the church. I tried to discreetly sit near the back, but no chance. I was directed to sit up front and fill in the pews where some people were already seated. I looked around. I was the only blan, but not for long. The Christianville people came in later and there was a mission group as well. Pretty soon the church was packed.
Our driver, Makendy, is a deacon in the Christianville Church and he also plays drums in the band (more on the band later). Shortly after I arrived, Makendy led the congregation in a prayer. When he was finished, Makendy saw me, gestured hello and proceeded to announce to the people that Dr. Tony was in attendance. Thanks, Makendy. Later when Pastor Fanel asked those who were attending Christianville Church for the first time to stand up and introduce themselves, I remained seated. No need to get up. I figured I had already been introduced.
Throughout the entire two and three quarter hours of the service, there was music, a constant background of music, loud and electric.
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The Church band |
A four-piece band provided the music: rhythm guitar, bass guitar, organ and drums. Makendy shared the drumming with another guy. Today was the rhythm guitarist’s birthday so he sang a number. A young girl also had a birthday today. They invited her to come up and sing. Her song was in English though I did not recognize the melody (I would have used Shazam if I had an Internet connection). As I watched the guy who was leading the singing, I kept thinking of Marvin Gaye!
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"Marvin" leading the singing |
He looked a little like Marvin Gaye and gestured like him when he sang. And as I write this, I’m listening to Marvin singing “I heard it through the grapevine” on Radio France Bleu. There were lots of songs in French and in Kreyol. Someone handed me a song book. The woman next to me pointed out the correct page when I could not find the right song. The woman seated in front of me also made sure I was on the same page. I sang along. It was not so hard. The melodies are simple and easy to follow after the first verse and I could read the French lyrics. It seems like all Haitians can sing very well and everyone was singing so well and so loudly that I didn’t mind singing along. No one could hear me singing off key.
In between the music, there was praying and preaching and the organ provided a steady stream of background music through it all.
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Pastor Fanel (left) gives the sermon and
Pastor Raymond (right) translates |
Out of consideration for the blans in attendance, Pastor Raymond, who is Haitian and the Christianville campus minister, translated Pastor Fanel’s sermon into English. There were more prayers and more songs and then the deacons passed around the serving plates for communion. In the Catholic Church, there would be hosts and wine. I was curious to see how communion was done in a Haitian Christian Church.
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The "bread" |
The plate arrived in my pew. There were pieces of crackers, sort of like Ritz crackers, on the silver plate. I took a small piece.
Next came the wine. It was in very small cups, with maybe about a tablespoon of wine in each. When everyone was served, Pastor Fanel spoke words that I recognized from the Liturgy of the Eucharist of the Catholic Mass. However, there was a major difference from the Catholic Mass. When Pastor Fanel pronounced (and Pastor Raymond translated) the words, ”This is my body” he ate his cracker and the congregation ate theirs along with him. In the same fashion, when he spoke “This is my blood”, we drank the wine. In the Catholic Mass, the Communion Rite is later in the Mass and that is when the congregation takes part of the bread (host) and wine which have become the Body and Blood of Christ.
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The wine |
Before the services ended, Pastor Fanel introduced two young people who were going to be baptized.
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Girl being baptized |
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Boy being baptized |
An 18 year old girl
and a 13 year old boy
sat up front dressed in robes.
There were some more prayers, the candidates said their baptismal vows and then Pastor Fanel plunged each teenager into the baptismal waters. It was behind a waist high wall so we could not see them.
Pastor Fanel led a final prayer and song and wished us all a wonderful day. Everyone shook hands and we wished each other well. I walked out of the church.
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L’Eglise Chrétienne de Christianville |
The sun was bright and the air was hot. I saw some people I knew and chatted with them. I found Makendy and he introduced me to his wife and 13 month old daughter. Another day in Haiti, another new experience. I think I might visit some other churches in the future to see what they are like. We will see.
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